Textile printing: what are the different techniques for personalizing a t-shirt?

We are already looking ahead to connected clothing equipped with artificial intelligence, even if the phase is still experimental. It is highly probable that within 2 years, we will be

Dressed in high-tech fabrics that intertwine classic fibers and micro-sensors connected to our smartphones. These garments will allow real-time measurement and analysis of our body's activities. An emerging market with immense prospects, following in the footsteps of the 2.0 wardrobe.

Current technology allows for multiple projects to be carried out on a fabric base, before they are connected… do you know the different textile customization techniques?

Sublimation:

It was long thought that sublimation could only be done on white, but today it is possible to sublimate on different colors because the important thing in this technique is to have polyester!

Because this technique consists of using a third-party support, called transfer paper, on which an image, a logo, or your shopping list is printed.

This transfer paper is truly specific because it is coated with a layer of polyester, a kind of varnish ready to receive the inkjet printing of the image, then, under the effect of heat and pressure, to transfer the ink directly into the weave of the textile.

This method allows for high-quality image rendering of patterns; the image then becomes an integral part of the product and not just affixed to it, perfectly homogeneous to the touch. It is important that the polyester varnish layer is of good quality for the transfer to be successful and resistant to successive washes...

For textiles, sublimation printing is only possible with fabrics containing polyester, and more particularly white textiles, mainly composed of polyester or very light colors (pale pink, pale blue, ecru...) because if you want a flashy design, white is truly ideal.

Textile sublimation is often found in the world of sports: soccer jerseys, rugby jerseys, cycling jerseys (polyester because it breathes better, etc.)

Textile factories that print large volumes use the ALL OVER technique: printing on meters of white fabric and then cutting and assembling the printed pieces in bulk... or printing on an already manufactured garment, the transfer is then applied to the entire piece.

Imperfections are observed during these industrial uses, such as visible white crease marks; it is necessary to ensure that the fabric is perfectly smoothed.

Screen printing:

Screen printing is a very old printing technique derived from stenciling.

It involves transferring ink onto a textile. The flat screen printing frame acts as a "stencil" between the ink and the support to be printed (t-shirt): the ink passes where the mesh is not blocked.

The difficulty with screen printing is that a film is needed for each color. It is very expensive and quite complicated to create four-color process patterns, and gradients cannot be made.

This method is restrictive for small workshops for several reasons: the application time of the ink for each color and the drying time between each color are long. A too long manufacturing time is not profitable.

At Workshop, we decided not to offer screen printing due to waste management: these are toxic waste products, chemical products that can be potentially contaminating. Screen printing waste is not always collected for sorting; waste stock management and the lack of sorting led us to adopt an environmentally friendly approach.

Screen printing companies consume large quantities of water for their manufacturing processes (especially for plate making, de-inking, and anti-ghosting treatments). Many of them today choose to treat their wastewater to pollute less and save money (reuse of treated water for processes). Inked waste, cleaning solvents, and old inks are also increasingly disposed of cleanly by specialized companies, as environmental protection organizations like DREAL are vigilant.

Direct inkjet printing:

On cotton t-shirts, the textile is dyed by spraying colors directly into the fiber, so the color unites with the fibers as soon as it dries.

This technique allows the use of a 100% organic textile support because there is no chemical transfer here; ink is simply printed and dried. These are eco-solvents, so not very polluting inks, as French legislation prohibits them.

Direct printing does not require any film; the product is soft and very pleasant to wear. The advantage is that direct digital printing reproduces the slightest details.

The rendering is very neat. With this technique, all colors can be printed. It is therefore ideal for patterns with more than three colors and with color gradients. The result is durable and resistant.

Direct digital printing is ideal for printing photos or multi-colored patterns, as well as color gradients. Whether the textile is dark or light, whether the pattern is complex or simple, thanks to this high-quality technique, photos or your graphic images can be printed on a textile. Ideal for personalized gifts, company logos, etc.)

FLOCKING:

Flocking consists of finely cut synthetic or natural fibers that resemble tiny hairs. In the 90s, it was a kind of felt that was glued onto the textile.

The length of the fibers can vary in thickness, which determines the appearance of the flocked product. Short fibers produce a velvety surface, while longer fibers (up to 14 mm) resemble hair more.

Flocking is a process of depositing very fine fibers; through flock, a felt or velvet effect is sought on the flocked surface, previously coated with an adhesive. Printing is done using a thin film, from which each pattern will be cut. This film will then be melted at high temperature, under the effect of strong pressure.

Flocking is also one of the most elaborate printing techniques due to its resistant and high-quality printing results. The process is identical to that of flex printing.

The obvious difference lies in the final result. The flocked surface is slightly raised and resembles velvet. It is reminiscent of the fine surface of a plush toy. Flocking is perfectly suited for patterns without color gradients, for texts, and for logos. A maximum of three different colors can be printed per pattern.

This heat-adhesive synthetic support is heated and melted so that it adheres.

The adhesive must be polymerized so that it fixes the shape and does not peel off.

Many things can be flocked: holograms, zebra patterns, etc.

The design and the support define the personalization of T-shirts and other textile items. It is important at all levels to choose the right technique to obtain a beautiful piece that will last over time. At Capumattu, with our extensive experience, we offer appropriate customizations, depending on the colors. Our t-shirts are made of organic cotton, a durable, recyclable, and easy-care material.